It was Christmas last Saturday - and like always i looked forward to the big day. As a child in the 80s of Kolkata, i have some distinct memories of the day - a jaunty group arriving at our neighbour's house on Christmas eve to usher in the big day, with their sweet carols. They finely strummed the chords of the guitar and sang in lilting harmony praises to the Lord.
Christmas also meant lots of shopping in New Market - walking past rows of sparkling Christmas trees and stuffed Santa; while the soft scent of freshly baked cakes and cookies filled my senses!
Christmas meant a decorated Park Street, gleaming in different hued lights - where revellers walked its entire length through the depths of the night.
This time around - while the traditional Christmas ball was on in a few known places, some others tried to rev up more steam on that nippy December evening. They were a bevy of 20-something swell beauties who promised to 'raise the steam and burn the floor' at the various venues. So, for a Las Vegas Christmas experience you had skimpily clad nymphs serving you alcohol; somewhere else you had an oomph-oozing belly dancer swaying to lilting rhythms, while testosterone-high gawkers gawked endlessly at her; and elsewhere you had Ukrainian svelte bodies dressed in skimpy Santa gear (with a red and white furry tail hanging from behind) who promised the best lap dance ever!
Now, what our podgy Saint Nicholas from Lapland thought of these tawdry jamborees I wonder - probably in Kolkata’s pious red bastion he was ‘seeing red’ of an altogether different kind!
29 December 2010
07 December 2010
The Indian Olive
The Indian Olive, a desi version of the olives found in the western world is abundantly available in West Bengal, North East and Bangladesh. It is either eaten raw, pickled or cooked to make the bengali 'chutney', wich is essentially a dish in itself and not just another sauce, like it is in most other Indian cusines.
Called 'jalpai' in bengali, the Indian Olive is greenish in colour and has quite a tangy sting in its flavour. This one however, is not laden with the olive oil, as we usually find in its western counterpart.
The funny bit here is that - most people refuse to believe that there actually exists an Indian Olive, since our knowledge about the fruit is dominated by what we know about its mediterranean cousin....Just another example of how we often fail to appreciate that which is our own!
Called 'jalpai' in bengali, the Indian Olive is greenish in colour and has quite a tangy sting in its flavour. This one however, is not laden with the olive oil, as we usually find in its western counterpart.
The funny bit here is that - most people refuse to believe that there actually exists an Indian Olive, since our knowledge about the fruit is dominated by what we know about its mediterranean cousin....Just another example of how we often fail to appreciate that which is our own!
21 November 2010
Kolkata, like many other metropolises has been home to a plethora of people from different corners of this nation and the world. Marwaris, Tamilians, Chinese, Parsis, Muslims, Armenians and Brits, and of course the Jains. A very close knit and moneyed community, Jains had migrated to Bengal from Rajasthan seeking new fortunes in its then rich shores. While Kolkata became their home much later, it was actually Murshidabad, where they first came to live during the Nawabi rule.
Sheherwali, is what Jains from Murshidabad are known as - a sheherwali is a 'city-bred' Jain - ‘city’, because Murshidabad was the erstwhile capital of Bengal under the Mughals, which later shifted to Kolkata during the British rule.
Sheherwalis were mainly merchants and bankers who worked in tandem with the prosperous Nawabs of Bengal.
The name Jagath Seth, a title meaning ‘banker to the world’ conferred on a wealthy merchant family of that time, however, like Shakespeare’s eponymous character Brutus, is associated with a dark period in Bengal’s lustrous history – it is but a fact that the ‘Seths’ were responsible in coalescing with the British to put an end to the rule of the Nawabs in Bengal, and thereby establishing the first footprints of the colossal British Empire in the sub-continent.
While Bengal, during the Mughal era was a veritable goldmine – offering rich profits to traders dealing in agriculture, precious stones, silks and ivory – Murshidabad was seen as the ‘icing on the cake’ by flourishing tradesmen. It is said Robert Clive after visiting the city had famously said that its men were richer than any he had seen in London.
…. but that is a thing of the past – for now, it’s a different reality - the once resplendent and beautiful city of Murshidabad, on the banks of the Bhaghirathi is among the poorest districts in India.
Sheherwali, is what Jains from Murshidabad are known as - a sheherwali is a 'city-bred' Jain - ‘city’, because Murshidabad was the erstwhile capital of Bengal under the Mughals, which later shifted to Kolkata during the British rule.
Sheherwalis were mainly merchants and bankers who worked in tandem with the prosperous Nawabs of Bengal.
The name Jagath Seth, a title meaning ‘banker to the world’ conferred on a wealthy merchant family of that time, however, like Shakespeare’s eponymous character Brutus, is associated with a dark period in Bengal’s lustrous history – it is but a fact that the ‘Seths’ were responsible in coalescing with the British to put an end to the rule of the Nawabs in Bengal, and thereby establishing the first footprints of the colossal British Empire in the sub-continent.
While Bengal, during the Mughal era was a veritable goldmine – offering rich profits to traders dealing in agriculture, precious stones, silks and ivory – Murshidabad was seen as the ‘icing on the cake’ by flourishing tradesmen. It is said Robert Clive after visiting the city had famously said that its men were richer than any he had seen in London.
…. but that is a thing of the past – for now, it’s a different reality - the once resplendent and beautiful city of Murshidabad, on the banks of the Bhaghirathi is among the poorest districts in India.
10 November 2010
Solar powered movie theatre!!
Now here’s a truly effective and innovative energy saving idea that’s generating a lot of enthusiasm. Sol Cinema – the world’s smallest solar-powered movie theatre, which gives you the option to enjoy movies in a more sustainable and eco-friendly manner.
Situated in Kent, UK, this unique effort being funded by the media arts charity group Undercurrents, is being promoted to spread awareness on climate change issues and solar power energy.
This one-of-a-kind movie theatre is in fact a recycled two-berth 1960s caravan powered by four large lithium ion batteries that are charged by two 120W solar panels. It can seat upto eigth adults or about 12 children. Since its inception Sol Cinema has travelled around the country showcasing documentary and short-films on green issues. Earlier in the year, the cinema was used at Ramsgate town’s new Summer Squall Arts Festival, where it screened a number of local documentary films.
A fun movie-going experience, Sol Cinema is stocked with a rare collection of quirky movies, music videos and short films with stirring environment themes.
An inspiring effort, Sol Cinema is the perfect example of what can be done on a small scale by individuals and institutions to tackle climate change.
Check out Sol Cinema's unique look in the following link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ye8gs1MN-eM&feature=channel
Situated in Kent, UK, this unique effort being funded by the media arts charity group Undercurrents, is being promoted to spread awareness on climate change issues and solar power energy.
This one-of-a-kind movie theatre is in fact a recycled two-berth 1960s caravan powered by four large lithium ion batteries that are charged by two 120W solar panels. It can seat upto eigth adults or about 12 children. Since its inception Sol Cinema has travelled around the country showcasing documentary and short-films on green issues. Earlier in the year, the cinema was used at Ramsgate town’s new Summer Squall Arts Festival, where it screened a number of local documentary films.
A fun movie-going experience, Sol Cinema is stocked with a rare collection of quirky movies, music videos and short films with stirring environment themes.
An inspiring effort, Sol Cinema is the perfect example of what can be done on a small scale by individuals and institutions to tackle climate change.
Check out Sol Cinema's unique look in the following link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ye8gs1MN-eM&feature=channel
22 October 2010
From Lakshmi to Lakme and vice-versa!
It's Lakshmi Puja here in Bengal today - unlike other parts of India where the goddess of wealth and prosperity will grace households on Diwali. On this day of Kojaagori or Sharad (autumn) Poornima, when the full-moon shines forth on a pleasant Ashwin (Sep-Oct) evening, households beam bright to welcome Fortune's footsteps with much fanfare and celebration. It is believed that it was on this day Lakshmi, in her avataar as the goddess of wealth, was born from the depths of the milky-ocean during samdura-manthan. In Bengal legend says that Lakshmi tiptoes into households in the depths of the full-moon night, to make sure, as it were, if householders are awake to welcome her - 'Ko jaagori' she asks, which literally translates to 'who is awake?'. Thus the custom in Bengal to paint her nimble feet at doorsteps - an ironic reminder almost to the fleet-footed and changeable nature of fortune and wealth.
Lakshmi is Lord Vishnu's consort, and among her many virtues are also mentioned beauty, grace, charm, wisdom and lustre. No wonder then that a cosmetic giant chose her name to brand their products which would lend women in India (through usage of their products of course) the much-needed charm and beauty that the goddess herself embodies! But they opted for a French derivative of the Indian name, Lakmé, and not the more hackneyed Lakshmi. So in essence Lakmé (mind you not Laskhmi) stands for all things Indian yet with a French twist - probably to lend some international appeal, which our revered Goddess in her red (often golden) saree so gravely lacks!
Interestingly the name Lakmé, that the famous makers chose to christen their brand of products, was adopted from a legendary French opera of the same name composed by Leo Delibes. The opera celebrates the oriental charm captured through the romance of an Indian girl called Lakshmi and her British paramour Gerald.
Lakshmi is Lord Vishnu's consort, and among her many virtues are also mentioned beauty, grace, charm, wisdom and lustre. No wonder then that a cosmetic giant chose her name to brand their products which would lend women in India (through usage of their products of course) the much-needed charm and beauty that the goddess herself embodies! But they opted for a French derivative of the Indian name, Lakmé, and not the more hackneyed Lakshmi. So in essence Lakmé (mind you not Laskhmi) stands for all things Indian yet with a French twist - probably to lend some international appeal, which our revered Goddess in her red (often golden) saree so gravely lacks!
Interestingly the name Lakmé, that the famous makers chose to christen their brand of products, was adopted from a legendary French opera of the same name composed by Leo Delibes. The opera celebrates the oriental charm captured through the romance of an Indian girl called Lakshmi and her British paramour Gerald.
17 October 2010
12 October 2010
Rhythms of Ujjain
Caught in the clamour and joy of Navaratri, the temple-town of Ujjain came alive on the banks of the placid Shipra river. An otherwise quiet town, rapt in quaint traditions, it was dressed for the nine-day celebrations with fluroscent lights and myriad floral decorations. It's ancient temples teeming with pilgrims, tourists and sadhus - making the religious fervour palpable in the autumnal October milieu. Roadside kiosks busy with quick transactions...they had everything on offer, from fresh flowers, toys, picture postcards, idols, clothes, aromatic Indian snacks to bhaang laden lassi.
The Avantika of yore (erstwhile Ujjain of King Ashoka's father), however, seems to exist in fleeting glimpses only - dotted here and there across this small yet legendary town...it comes alive in the Mahakaal temple's exotic yet strikingly imposing architecture; and more so at the Mangalnath and Kaalbhairav temples whose odd stone-idols hurl you back, almost instantly, to an unknown pagan era. Otherwise this ancient town wears the usual chaos and clutter of any old, Indian city, struggling to keep pace with modern sensibilities...no wonder then that an ice-cream joint and a glitzy mall seem so out of place here, at odds almost with the pristine Hindu traditions, that define its character. Strains of an 80's Lata Mangeshkar song - "sheesha ho ya dil ho aakhir toot jaata hain" floats into my ear; while garish posters of Bollywood stars, holy saints and political leaders demand my attention. This is the India that I crave to go back to time and again - a people and a city moving on in its self-created rhythms!
The Avantika of yore (erstwhile Ujjain of King Ashoka's father), however, seems to exist in fleeting glimpses only - dotted here and there across this small yet legendary town...it comes alive in the Mahakaal temple's exotic yet strikingly imposing architecture; and more so at the Mangalnath and Kaalbhairav temples whose odd stone-idols hurl you back, almost instantly, to an unknown pagan era. Otherwise this ancient town wears the usual chaos and clutter of any old, Indian city, struggling to keep pace with modern sensibilities...no wonder then that an ice-cream joint and a glitzy mall seem so out of place here, at odds almost with the pristine Hindu traditions, that define its character. Strains of an 80's Lata Mangeshkar song - "sheesha ho ya dil ho aakhir toot jaata hain" floats into my ear; while garish posters of Bollywood stars, holy saints and political leaders demand my attention. This is the India that I crave to go back to time and again - a people and a city moving on in its self-created rhythms!
04 October 2010
It's Monkey vs Monkey at this CWG event
While Shera, the mascot has been rubbing shoulders with the high & mighty at the Common wealth games; a frivolous snake and some fiddling stray dogs happily entered the plush environs of the games' village meant exclusively for humans! Now, what fate has befallen the snake and the stray dogs for such 'wild' transgressions, I know not - but two more creatures are making waves at certain other parts of our glossy capital-city to make it more 'livable' for humans during these games! I saw them in action near the parliament and also near one of the venues - it was monkey vs monkey at full throttle! A well-fed Langoor versus an army of hungry and unkempt Rhesus monkeys involved in a noisy chase, leaping from tree to tree till the latter vanished from sight. The chase over, the smart langoor leaped onto the backseat of a motorbike - its rider, clad in a white suit and red cap, congratulated the langoor for the marvellous job done and proudly placed a similar red-cap on the animal's small rotund head, as if the red-cap was a badge of honour befitting only the brave. The rider started his bike and the two rode off like conscientious soldiers aiming their next task at hand! A large crowd which had gathered to witness this spectacular event cheered the langoor with applause and noisy whistles. This CWG event managed enough spectators; wonder how many the actual games would at its different venues though!
22 September 2010
16 September 2010
While last year’s Eid was spent in the company of great friends, this year was markedly different…’how different?’ – well I’m at a loss of words really; trying hard to describe what this special day was like this time around. I got a call in the wee hours, on that day – a lady’s voice it was - speaking frantically, the tension almost evident in every syllable that she uttered! It was Prerna, my neighbour’s maid – asking me for an urgent help. “My niece is untraceable – the agent who got her from Orissa says he has no records suggesting that he ever brought her from her village to Delhi!” – The feverish pain predominant in Prerna’s voice had already begun affecting me as it were – for I immediately visualised, what an utterly hopeless situation she and her entire family were dragged into.
Prerna’s niece,Chabi, is all of 12 years - who lost her mother at a tender age, and was ‘sold off’ (about 6 months back) to an agent who lured her father and step mother with the promise of a “good household” to work in, as a maid.
Prerna hails from a remote village near Bhuwaneshwar, in Orissa – its people are poor, and their only source of income from farming, has taken a beating due to poor monsoons since the last two years. Trafficking of young girls from Orissa is one of the highest in the country…. figures show approx 4000 minor girls went missing from the area between 2000-2005; and often a lack of other options for livelihood compels these young women to never return to their roots again.
For now, Prerna’s saga has just begun…searching for her little niece; and lodging complaints at police stations and NGOs.
Prerna’s niece,Chabi, is all of 12 years - who lost her mother at a tender age, and was ‘sold off’ (about 6 months back) to an agent who lured her father and step mother with the promise of a “good household” to work in, as a maid.
Prerna hails from a remote village near Bhuwaneshwar, in Orissa – its people are poor, and their only source of income from farming, has taken a beating due to poor monsoons since the last two years. Trafficking of young girls from Orissa is one of the highest in the country…. figures show approx 4000 minor girls went missing from the area between 2000-2005; and often a lack of other options for livelihood compels these young women to never return to their roots again.
For now, Prerna’s saga has just begun…searching for her little niece; and lodging complaints at police stations and NGOs.
07 September 2010
'Emerald Country' - my published feature on Assam....here it is for those of you who wanted to read it!
As the flight nears Jorhat airport and gears for its descent, I look below and see a land strikingly green – glittering in the afternoon sun, like a stunning emerald! Though Jorhat (north-eastern part of Assam) is not in my itinerary, yet travelling through its verdant valleys fills my senses and raises my anticipation! My destination is Kaaziranga National Park – the last remaining natural habitat of the Asian Elephant and the Great Indian One-Horned Rhinoceros.
A 1-½ hours drive (96 km), from Jorhat airport through NH 37, Kaaziranga National Park covers an approx area of 859 sq km. Straddling the districts of Nagaon, Golaghat and the newly acquired parts of Sonitpur, this vast stretch is a mishmash of grasslands, tropical evergreen forests and wetlands. The park is divided into five distinct zones namely Bagori (west) Kohora (central), Burapahar (north-west), Agaratoli (east) and the recent addition Bishwanath Ghaat, on the banks of the Brahmaputra River (north).
Kohora in the central zone has the highest number of hotels and restaurants – here, I have booked my stay at the beautifully decorated four-star property IORA – The Retreat, (a flagship property of Janambhumi Hotels and Resorts). Before sundown I decide to go for a stroll in the nearby village. It’s only the beginning of March and rains have already hit the valley…and Mother Nature has begun unfolding her many splendid charms! The reek of freshly soaked earth is unmistakable. The constant drone of fireflies and crickets; the occasional drill of a woodpecker and the intermittent croaking of a frog fill the nippy breeze. Shrubs of wild flowers, strikingly bright dahlia, hibiscus, marigolds and roses compel your attention, away from thickets of bamboo, sal, and banyan; as well as the stunning emerald patchwork of surrounding paddy fields, that one has been admiring. I venture into one of the jhoopuri’s (thatched huts made of bamboo and grass) where unassuming locals carry on actively with the remnants of their day’s work – young women busy weaving the last few yards of an intricately designed ‘ghamosa’(small piece of cloth, like a shawl, it is used for any special occasion) and a glossy muga cloth (Muga, Eri and Pat are the indigenous wild silks produced in Assam); and bamboo artisans moving their deft hands to give final touches to exquisite bamboo artefacts.
I wake up early next morning and head to the western range of Kaziranga - Bagori. An elephant safari around the park is what I have planned. As our mammoth mammal (carrying five passengers including the mahut) trudges into the forest, I get the first glimpse of Kaziranga’s vast and exotic locale. Undulating stretches of brown elephant-grass, dotted with marshy beels (shallow lakes which get replenished by the Brahmaputra during monsoons) and hemmed in by the misty Karbi-Anglong hills in the distance unfold before us! Just a month ago the grass here would have been green – now they have been burnt for the fresh lot to grow. The fresh grass is what the park’s huge population of herbivores will graze on, informs the mahut. This annual burning is also a unique way of maintaining the ecological balance of wood, forest and wetland ratio in the park.
At some distance we spot a massive Great Indian One-Horned Rhinoceros (once found in the grassy flood plains of the Indus, Ganga and Brahmaputra rivers, it is now restricted to the forests of Kaziranga) – apparently a shy animal weighing close to 1800 kg, we are told it can charge at speeds of 55 km per hour when attacked. Current rhino population in the park is upwards of 2000.
A few metres away a reddish-brown sambar (Asian deer) emerges and just as quickly merges into the tall brown grass. Interestingly, the name Kaziranga meaning ‘the land of the red goat’, is derived from the local Karbi words, ‘Kazi’ meaning goat and ‘ranga’ denoting red.
Kaziranga is today a shining example of successful wildlife conservation. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it boasts of having the highest density of tigers in India, (current populations, thanks to the Project Tiger initiative is upwards of 100). The park is also home to large populations of elephants, wild buffaloes, barasingha (swamp deer), wild boars, monitor lizards, bear, and variety of reptiles, river dolphins and around 500 species of migratory and resident birds.
The elephant safari is however only a cursory glance of the park. The jeep ride, which is close to 4 hours, will take you well into the central range of Kohora - into dense groves of towering broadleaf trees and canopies of entwining roots. It’s true wilderness here - an almost no-man’s land where you can find hordes of big tuskers or groups of wild buffaloes wallowing in the warm waters. Manoj, our guide stopped at strategic locations to make us spot some of the rarest species of birds (close to 40) including imperial pigeons, red-breasted parakeets, pelicans, the snake bird, cormorants, serpent eagles, the Great Indian hornbill, egrets and storks (avid bird-watchers, however head to Agaratoli, which is considered a birding paradise).
Fascinating sights and sounds all – we chased a jungle fowl and were chased by a cluster of grasshoppers; watched river fishes toss in the air; kingfishers deftly scoop out their catch; a neelkanth (Indian Roller) spread it’s majestic blue wings and families of lazy tortoises sunbathing on tree-trunks strewn on the Diflu river (a tributary of the Brahmaputra, it criss-crosses through Kaziranga). We heard barbets click in unison, owls hoot from treetops, elephants trumpet and wild boars snort –every sound breaking the deafening silence as it were! The big cat however was nowhere to be seen! “Reason enough for another visit”, I told myself!
Though Kaziranga remains closed during the monsoon months – yet there will be plentiful opportunities to spot its faunal spledour. During monsoons most areas of the forest get flooded, and as such, animals, including tigers, cross over to the adjoining Karbi-Anglong hills. Incidentally poaching is still a nagging issue for the region, despite the many rigorous measures introduced by the government to punish the guilty.
The safari done – we headed straight to the Hathikhuli tea estate (owned by the Tata group). Manicured stretches of the camellia sinesis (plant whose leaves are used to produce tea) lay before us. Tea is mostly grown in the lowlands of Assam, unlike Dargeeling and Nilgiris where it is found in the highlands. Assam is the world’s most prolific tea growing region - the rich soil of the Brahmaputra valley, combined with a generous rainfall and humid climate are considered ideal for its rich yield. Historically China and Assam are the only two regions in the world with native tea plants. It is believed that the first tea-plant was spotted here by Scottish adventurer Robert Bruce in 1823.
Since our visit was in early March we missed the first harvest of tea leaves(also known as the first flush) which would begin later in the month. The second harvest, or the 'second flush' begins in June. Tea-tourism, is gradually picking up in the state – so, if you happen to visit sometime between April-November you can opt for guided tours of plantations and factories; as well as watch the colourful jhoomoor dance, traditionally performed by plantation workers after every harvest.
But there’s more to the region than lush tea estates, exotic animals and magnificent forests – it’s the people and their unique cultural traditions. “Assam, with its rich and vast ethnic diversity is an anthropologist’s delight”, says Sanjay Bose, a public relations and branding consultant and a wildlife enthusiast who has extensively travelled the region. There are vast populations of indigenous tribes like Karbis, Missings, Bodos and Kaccharis spread across the region along with the traditional Ahoms, each having their distinct dialects and customs. Following his suggestion, I decide to explore the nearby villages - to try and get a glimpse of tribal life. Though traditionally involved in agriculture and fishing, a vast majority of younger tribals have today assimilated into more modern lifestyles. As a tourist one can visit their inconspicuous bamboo dwellings as well as enjoy a typical tribal meal with the families!
Being a people enmeshed in natural surroundings, their knowledge of the flora and fauna of the region is vast and in-depth….you can often hear a tribal spewing out scientific names of species at random. This, I discovered at Kaziranga, as well as at my next destination Bhalukpung, the border town between Assam and Arunachal Pradesh...
A 3 hours journey from Kohora (52 kms from Tezpur), Bhalukpong, is a quiet town nestled amidst the green Himalayan ranges of Arunachal Pradesh and the luxuriant Nameri National Park. The Jia Bhoreli river, which wends through this tiny hamlet (it later joins the Brahmaputra at Tezpur), begins its journey as the Kameng river, from the glaciers of Tawang, in Arunachal Pradesh. Interestingly, Bhalukpong is also the only route through which one can reach the very scenic town of Bomdila (popular among mountain lovers and trekkers) and Tawang, a place most revered by Tibetan Buddhists, (both towns are in Arunachal Pradesh).
Bhalukpung is an ideal weekend getaway – a most pristine and virgin land that is largely unexplored! The place is a much-favoured destination for hard-core wildlife enthusiasts and nature lovers, and has tremendous potential to build on adventure sports; eco and culture tourism. Though guided tours of the Nameri National Park is available yet due to stray incidents of insurgency, the region is yet to see brisk tourist activities. There is a heavy presence of the army and paramilitary forces all along, till the borders of Arunachal Pradesh; and its arterial road, which connects it to Tawang, is only being set up now – a huge relief for locals of the area.
Apart from a visit to Nameri, one can also go rafting on the Jia Bhoreli river – however don’t expect the thrills of the sport as you might have enjoyed on the Ganges at Rishikesh, since the rapids here aren’t strong enough. You can however savour fascinating views of the surrounding mountains and the forests, as well as watch some rare birds as you sail along. Just 5 kms away from Bhalukpong is the Tipi Orchid garden, Asia’s largest orchid centre – it has around 500 species of exotic orchids on display.
Where to stay
@ Kaziranga
IORA Resorts - situated only 1.5 kilometres from the main entrance gates to the wildlife national park, this four-star property comprises a total of 42 aesthetically designed rooms (four suites, 19 luxury rooms and 19 deluxe rooms) with balconies. The rooms are in fact quite luxurious and spacious; and provide splendid views of the surrounding hills and forests.
Bonhabi Resort - Just a short walk from the main entrance gate of Kohora Central Range, Bonhabi has 14 spacious, twin bedded cottages, which are large, airy and very modern in their layout. You will get some amazing views of the surrounding tropical forests and paddy fields.
Others – Emerald, Wild Grass, Arj Resort, Landmark Woods.
@ Bhalukpung
Prashanthi cottages - leased from the Assam government, by the Janambhumi Group, it has 10 independent cottages set on the banks of the Jia Bhoreli river.
Eco-camp – nestled amidst the foliage of Nameri, this unique resort has a cluster of 10 huts (made of bamboo and grass) instead of concrete rooms; and is an ideal place for nature lovers.
Others – Prashanthi Lodge
A 1-½ hours drive (96 km), from Jorhat airport through NH 37, Kaaziranga National Park covers an approx area of 859 sq km. Straddling the districts of Nagaon, Golaghat and the newly acquired parts of Sonitpur, this vast stretch is a mishmash of grasslands, tropical evergreen forests and wetlands. The park is divided into five distinct zones namely Bagori (west) Kohora (central), Burapahar (north-west), Agaratoli (east) and the recent addition Bishwanath Ghaat, on the banks of the Brahmaputra River (north).
Kohora in the central zone has the highest number of hotels and restaurants – here, I have booked my stay at the beautifully decorated four-star property IORA – The Retreat, (a flagship property of Janambhumi Hotels and Resorts). Before sundown I decide to go for a stroll in the nearby village. It’s only the beginning of March and rains have already hit the valley…and Mother Nature has begun unfolding her many splendid charms! The reek of freshly soaked earth is unmistakable. The constant drone of fireflies and crickets; the occasional drill of a woodpecker and the intermittent croaking of a frog fill the nippy breeze. Shrubs of wild flowers, strikingly bright dahlia, hibiscus, marigolds and roses compel your attention, away from thickets of bamboo, sal, and banyan; as well as the stunning emerald patchwork of surrounding paddy fields, that one has been admiring. I venture into one of the jhoopuri’s (thatched huts made of bamboo and grass) where unassuming locals carry on actively with the remnants of their day’s work – young women busy weaving the last few yards of an intricately designed ‘ghamosa’(small piece of cloth, like a shawl, it is used for any special occasion) and a glossy muga cloth (Muga, Eri and Pat are the indigenous wild silks produced in Assam); and bamboo artisans moving their deft hands to give final touches to exquisite bamboo artefacts.
I wake up early next morning and head to the western range of Kaziranga - Bagori. An elephant safari around the park is what I have planned. As our mammoth mammal (carrying five passengers including the mahut) trudges into the forest, I get the first glimpse of Kaziranga’s vast and exotic locale. Undulating stretches of brown elephant-grass, dotted with marshy beels (shallow lakes which get replenished by the Brahmaputra during monsoons) and hemmed in by the misty Karbi-Anglong hills in the distance unfold before us! Just a month ago the grass here would have been green – now they have been burnt for the fresh lot to grow. The fresh grass is what the park’s huge population of herbivores will graze on, informs the mahut. This annual burning is also a unique way of maintaining the ecological balance of wood, forest and wetland ratio in the park.
At some distance we spot a massive Great Indian One-Horned Rhinoceros (once found in the grassy flood plains of the Indus, Ganga and Brahmaputra rivers, it is now restricted to the forests of Kaziranga) – apparently a shy animal weighing close to 1800 kg, we are told it can charge at speeds of 55 km per hour when attacked. Current rhino population in the park is upwards of 2000.
A few metres away a reddish-brown sambar (Asian deer) emerges and just as quickly merges into the tall brown grass. Interestingly, the name Kaziranga meaning ‘the land of the red goat’, is derived from the local Karbi words, ‘Kazi’ meaning goat and ‘ranga’ denoting red.
Kaziranga is today a shining example of successful wildlife conservation. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it boasts of having the highest density of tigers in India, (current populations, thanks to the Project Tiger initiative is upwards of 100). The park is also home to large populations of elephants, wild buffaloes, barasingha (swamp deer), wild boars, monitor lizards, bear, and variety of reptiles, river dolphins and around 500 species of migratory and resident birds.
The elephant safari is however only a cursory glance of the park. The jeep ride, which is close to 4 hours, will take you well into the central range of Kohora - into dense groves of towering broadleaf trees and canopies of entwining roots. It’s true wilderness here - an almost no-man’s land where you can find hordes of big tuskers or groups of wild buffaloes wallowing in the warm waters. Manoj, our guide stopped at strategic locations to make us spot some of the rarest species of birds (close to 40) including imperial pigeons, red-breasted parakeets, pelicans, the snake bird, cormorants, serpent eagles, the Great Indian hornbill, egrets and storks (avid bird-watchers, however head to Agaratoli, which is considered a birding paradise).
Fascinating sights and sounds all – we chased a jungle fowl and were chased by a cluster of grasshoppers; watched river fishes toss in the air; kingfishers deftly scoop out their catch; a neelkanth (Indian Roller) spread it’s majestic blue wings and families of lazy tortoises sunbathing on tree-trunks strewn on the Diflu river (a tributary of the Brahmaputra, it criss-crosses through Kaziranga). We heard barbets click in unison, owls hoot from treetops, elephants trumpet and wild boars snort –every sound breaking the deafening silence as it were! The big cat however was nowhere to be seen! “Reason enough for another visit”, I told myself!
Though Kaziranga remains closed during the monsoon months – yet there will be plentiful opportunities to spot its faunal spledour. During monsoons most areas of the forest get flooded, and as such, animals, including tigers, cross over to the adjoining Karbi-Anglong hills. Incidentally poaching is still a nagging issue for the region, despite the many rigorous measures introduced by the government to punish the guilty.
The safari done – we headed straight to the Hathikhuli tea estate (owned by the Tata group). Manicured stretches of the camellia sinesis (plant whose leaves are used to produce tea) lay before us. Tea is mostly grown in the lowlands of Assam, unlike Dargeeling and Nilgiris where it is found in the highlands. Assam is the world’s most prolific tea growing region - the rich soil of the Brahmaputra valley, combined with a generous rainfall and humid climate are considered ideal for its rich yield. Historically China and Assam are the only two regions in the world with native tea plants. It is believed that the first tea-plant was spotted here by Scottish adventurer Robert Bruce in 1823.
Since our visit was in early March we missed the first harvest of tea leaves(also known as the first flush) which would begin later in the month. The second harvest, or the 'second flush' begins in June. Tea-tourism, is gradually picking up in the state – so, if you happen to visit sometime between April-November you can opt for guided tours of plantations and factories; as well as watch the colourful jhoomoor dance, traditionally performed by plantation workers after every harvest.
But there’s more to the region than lush tea estates, exotic animals and magnificent forests – it’s the people and their unique cultural traditions. “Assam, with its rich and vast ethnic diversity is an anthropologist’s delight”, says Sanjay Bose, a public relations and branding consultant and a wildlife enthusiast who has extensively travelled the region. There are vast populations of indigenous tribes like Karbis, Missings, Bodos and Kaccharis spread across the region along with the traditional Ahoms, each having their distinct dialects and customs. Following his suggestion, I decide to explore the nearby villages - to try and get a glimpse of tribal life. Though traditionally involved in agriculture and fishing, a vast majority of younger tribals have today assimilated into more modern lifestyles. As a tourist one can visit their inconspicuous bamboo dwellings as well as enjoy a typical tribal meal with the families!
Being a people enmeshed in natural surroundings, their knowledge of the flora and fauna of the region is vast and in-depth….you can often hear a tribal spewing out scientific names of species at random. This, I discovered at Kaziranga, as well as at my next destination Bhalukpung, the border town between Assam and Arunachal Pradesh...
A 3 hours journey from Kohora (52 kms from Tezpur), Bhalukpong, is a quiet town nestled amidst the green Himalayan ranges of Arunachal Pradesh and the luxuriant Nameri National Park. The Jia Bhoreli river, which wends through this tiny hamlet (it later joins the Brahmaputra at Tezpur), begins its journey as the Kameng river, from the glaciers of Tawang, in Arunachal Pradesh. Interestingly, Bhalukpong is also the only route through which one can reach the very scenic town of Bomdila (popular among mountain lovers and trekkers) and Tawang, a place most revered by Tibetan Buddhists, (both towns are in Arunachal Pradesh).
Bhalukpung is an ideal weekend getaway – a most pristine and virgin land that is largely unexplored! The place is a much-favoured destination for hard-core wildlife enthusiasts and nature lovers, and has tremendous potential to build on adventure sports; eco and culture tourism. Though guided tours of the Nameri National Park is available yet due to stray incidents of insurgency, the region is yet to see brisk tourist activities. There is a heavy presence of the army and paramilitary forces all along, till the borders of Arunachal Pradesh; and its arterial road, which connects it to Tawang, is only being set up now – a huge relief for locals of the area.
Apart from a visit to Nameri, one can also go rafting on the Jia Bhoreli river – however don’t expect the thrills of the sport as you might have enjoyed on the Ganges at Rishikesh, since the rapids here aren’t strong enough. You can however savour fascinating views of the surrounding mountains and the forests, as well as watch some rare birds as you sail along. Just 5 kms away from Bhalukpong is the Tipi Orchid garden, Asia’s largest orchid centre – it has around 500 species of exotic orchids on display.
Where to stay
@ Kaziranga
IORA Resorts - situated only 1.5 kilometres from the main entrance gates to the wildlife national park, this four-star property comprises a total of 42 aesthetically designed rooms (four suites, 19 luxury rooms and 19 deluxe rooms) with balconies. The rooms are in fact quite luxurious and spacious; and provide splendid views of the surrounding hills and forests.
Bonhabi Resort - Just a short walk from the main entrance gate of Kohora Central Range, Bonhabi has 14 spacious, twin bedded cottages, which are large, airy and very modern in their layout. You will get some amazing views of the surrounding tropical forests and paddy fields.
Others – Emerald, Wild Grass, Arj Resort, Landmark Woods.
@ Bhalukpung
Prashanthi cottages - leased from the Assam government, by the Janambhumi Group, it has 10 independent cottages set on the banks of the Jia Bhoreli river.
Eco-camp – nestled amidst the foliage of Nameri, this unique resort has a cluster of 10 huts (made of bamboo and grass) instead of concrete rooms; and is an ideal place for nature lovers.
Others – Prashanthi Lodge
14 August 2010
Once a chic address for the elite gentry of Kolkata, the grand colonial mansions today wear a decrepit look. A sudden crack; old paint peeling off from prominent portions of the facade; creepers stemming cautiously from several crevices or soggy weeds voraciously spreading like ugly patchwork on the old, tired walls – the former glory and elegance seem to be trying hard to find their rightful place again.
Queen’s Mansion and Park Mansion, both magnificent pieces of architecture on two corners of Park Street, are but mere shadows of their glorious past. Today curious onlookers and pedestrians on this celebrated thoroughfare lament their sordid present. Hurtful to the eyes almost, their maintenance today reeks of complete callousness - ill-managed electric wires, creaking wooden staircases, and dingy alleys and landings dirtied with splotches of paan spit!
Heritage buildings such as these bespeak of a glamorous past. They tell stories of a bygone era when wealthy Armenian businessmen built these edifices for their kith and kin –Armenian philanthropists, students and merchants who made Kolkata their home from the early 17th century. There are fascinating tales of how British ‘sahibs’ and ‘memsahibs’ cavorted during pretty shindigs and snotty soirees in the plush ballrooms; and several other legendary anecdotes- like those about rich patrons booking their favourite tables to enjoy the finest coffee and confectionaries at the uber-cool eateries housed in the complex. Cut to the present, and you can find floors (more precisely cloistered cubbyholes where rodents and pigeons hover about), which have been turned into small-scale manufacturing units, storehouses and offices.
…and like many other defunct institutions and symbols of this old city, these once-opulent structures are telling remarks on the apathy and squalor that has permeated the city's political and economic status!
Queen’s Mansion and Park Mansion, both magnificent pieces of architecture on two corners of Park Street, are but mere shadows of their glorious past. Today curious onlookers and pedestrians on this celebrated thoroughfare lament their sordid present. Hurtful to the eyes almost, their maintenance today reeks of complete callousness - ill-managed electric wires, creaking wooden staircases, and dingy alleys and landings dirtied with splotches of paan spit!
Heritage buildings such as these bespeak of a glamorous past. They tell stories of a bygone era when wealthy Armenian businessmen built these edifices for their kith and kin –Armenian philanthropists, students and merchants who made Kolkata their home from the early 17th century. There are fascinating tales of how British ‘sahibs’ and ‘memsahibs’ cavorted during pretty shindigs and snotty soirees in the plush ballrooms; and several other legendary anecdotes- like those about rich patrons booking their favourite tables to enjoy the finest coffee and confectionaries at the uber-cool eateries housed in the complex. Cut to the present, and you can find floors (more precisely cloistered cubbyholes where rodents and pigeons hover about), which have been turned into small-scale manufacturing units, storehouses and offices.
…and like many other defunct institutions and symbols of this old city, these once-opulent structures are telling remarks on the apathy and squalor that has permeated the city's political and economic status!
27 July 2010
When I walked into KFC...
Strolled into one of my favourite fast-food joints, KFC the other day and was pleasantly surprised to find a physically challenged young man eagerly taking orders at the counter. Since the boy couldn’t speak, he welcomed all the customers with a pleasant smile! With a special menu card at his disposal, he clarified in sign language, which items to include. He was fast and prompt with taking down the orders, delivering the food and finally with clearing off our bills.
Once my bill was cleared, I wanted to specially thank him and say a few words of encouragement - but realised right then as well that he didn’t require any - for he isn’t anyone special but just one of us….probably only doing his job with little more alacrity and enthusiasm!
Once my bill was cleared, I wanted to specially thank him and say a few words of encouragement - but realised right then as well that he didn’t require any - for he isn’t anyone special but just one of us….probably only doing his job with little more alacrity and enthusiasm!
20 July 2010
Tagore redefined.....and how!
Music is an extension of us - it defines and delineates our senses, our emotions and our feelings. Kolkata, presents a very colourful and thriving hotbed for musicians and their experiments with music. Someplace Else the rocking pub on Park Street is one such address for music lovers. It is said that at Someplace, it’s often not the booze that draws crowds but the many famed live bands and crooners who grace its mini podium every week. Be it Krosswinds’ melodious rock or now the soulful renditions of singers like Arunima, Someplace remains a much sought after pub till date.
My recent sojourn to this mecca of music proved rather disappointing though. For reasons of propriety I would like to keep anonymous the names of the musicians who were there that day, propagating their brand of music. They had translated some of Tagore’s most memorable compositions to English and sang (read ‘twanged’) them with utter gusto. While some listened rapt, most others felt restless and decided to take a break from this very unique musical experiment.
Not sure why a couple of noted singers would carry on such experiments with music to pay tribute to the bard from Bengal and that too at a venue where rock and blues still rules!
My recent sojourn to this mecca of music proved rather disappointing though. For reasons of propriety I would like to keep anonymous the names of the musicians who were there that day, propagating their brand of music. They had translated some of Tagore’s most memorable compositions to English and sang (read ‘twanged’) them with utter gusto. While some listened rapt, most others felt restless and decided to take a break from this very unique musical experiment.
Not sure why a couple of noted singers would carry on such experiments with music to pay tribute to the bard from Bengal and that too at a venue where rock and blues still rules!
26 June 2010
It's monsoons in kolkata...
So here I am, back to writing my blog after almost 2 months. I am in Kolkata right now, enjoying a personal visit. It’s monsoons in Kolkata, as it is in many other parts of the country – however I am tad disappointed with the rainfall this time. I grew up in a Kolkata where monsoons meant a heavy lash of rain hitting thunderously against your body and on your head…. with nerve-wracking thunderbolts literally sending shivers down your spine. Monsoons invariably meant waterlogging, clogged roads and lots of days without the sun. It also meant purchasing the best brand of raincoats and umbrellas, which could survive the incessant downpours. Long hours of power cuts and literally being stuck at home for there was no other option! Yet as kids we always had “other avenues” – frantically making paper boats to sail them on the waterlogged streets or running up to the terrace to soak in the afternoon showers!
My heart skips a beat even now when the thunder rages up in the skies and I look up eagerly to find the dark dense clouds, which cast their ominous gloom – yet the downpour which follows is merely a drizzle or at best a light shower. I am zealously praying for the rain gods to work some magic now!
My heart skips a beat even now when the thunder rages up in the skies and I look up eagerly to find the dark dense clouds, which cast their ominous gloom – yet the downpour which follows is merely a drizzle or at best a light shower. I am zealously praying for the rain gods to work some magic now!
25 June 2010
25 April 2010
My last trip to Assam was absolutely fascinating to say the least. Though initially a little hesitant about visiting the place given its insurgency problems – once there, I realised I would have missed an opportunity of a lifetime had I not come. I travelled through this strikingly lush state with stopovers at Kaziranga, Bhalukpung, Guwahati and Jorhat…crossed the massive Brahmaputra, soaked in the charms of Jia Bhoreli river at Bhalukpung and savoured nature’s bounteous beauty – its lush tea estates, exotic animals and magnificent forests. However there’s more to the region than its natural splendour - it’s the people and their unique cultural traditions.
Assam’s rich and vast ethnic diversity should be an anthropologist’s delight. There are vast populations of indigenous tribes like Karbis, Missings (also spelt as Mishing), Bodos and Kaccharis spread across the region, along with the traditional Ahoms and other Tibetan-Burmese sub-groups - each having their distinct dialects and uniquely colourful customs… I decided to explore the villages adjacent to the Karbi-Anglong Hills (near the Kaziranga National Park), to try and get a glimpse of tribal life. Though traditionally involved in agriculture and fishing, a vast majority of younger tribals have today assimilated into more modern lifestyles. Tourists can visit their inconspicuous bamboo dwellings as well as enjoy a typical tribal meal with the families here!
Being a people enmeshed in natural surroundings, their knowledge of the flora and fauna of the region is vast, in-depth and almost instinctive!You can often hear a tribal spewing out scientific names of species at random. This, I discovered at Kaziranga during the elephant safari when our mahut was casually uttering scientific names of species; and also at my next destination Bhalukpung, (border town between Assam and Arunachal Pradesh) which has a strong Bodo and Missing population.
The oarsmen on our raft belonged to the Mishing tribe - while regaling the people in the raft with interesting titbits about the region; they would, on spotting birds canvassing the waters for their catch, happily mention their scientific names as well. I was left quite speechless! – to know each animal or plant by their common name is one thing, while confidently mentioning their scientific classifications at random was quite another!
Assam’s rich and vast ethnic diversity should be an anthropologist’s delight. There are vast populations of indigenous tribes like Karbis, Missings (also spelt as Mishing), Bodos and Kaccharis spread across the region, along with the traditional Ahoms and other Tibetan-Burmese sub-groups - each having their distinct dialects and uniquely colourful customs… I decided to explore the villages adjacent to the Karbi-Anglong Hills (near the Kaziranga National Park), to try and get a glimpse of tribal life. Though traditionally involved in agriculture and fishing, a vast majority of younger tribals have today assimilated into more modern lifestyles. Tourists can visit their inconspicuous bamboo dwellings as well as enjoy a typical tribal meal with the families here!
Being a people enmeshed in natural surroundings, their knowledge of the flora and fauna of the region is vast, in-depth and almost instinctive!You can often hear a tribal spewing out scientific names of species at random. This, I discovered at Kaziranga during the elephant safari when our mahut was casually uttering scientific names of species; and also at my next destination Bhalukpung, (border town between Assam and Arunachal Pradesh) which has a strong Bodo and Missing population.
The oarsmen on our raft belonged to the Mishing tribe - while regaling the people in the raft with interesting titbits about the region; they would, on spotting birds canvassing the waters for their catch, happily mention their scientific names as well. I was left quite speechless! – to know each animal or plant by their common name is one thing, while confidently mentioning their scientific classifications at random was quite another!
05 March 2010
My recent trip to the beautiful city of lakes Udaipur will be etched in my memory for years to come. That Udaipur is a fascinating mish-mash of colours, sights and sounds, is known to all. It’s fairy-tale palaces and natural splendour instantly wraps you in its charm. Since tourism is its mainstay, the city and its people are aptly geared for it – yes, not just in terms of their friendly and helpful behaviour with tourists, but also with the many international languages they have mastered to cater to the never-ending flow of tourists from abroad.
Picture this – in a craggy old by-lane, I was checking out rajasthani artefacts, when their elderly shopkeeper – dressed in a traditional white dhoti and kurta, with a prominent tilak on his forehead – greeted a troupe of French guests in fluent French. The very next minute walked in a Japanese couple, and the shopkeeper ushered them in crisp Japanese. The guests more than happy, with this warm welcome – complimented his efforts.
Whether it’s at the hotel, where you call for room service; or speak to a very young waiter at an unknown wayside restaurant, you’ll be struck by their fluency over international languages.
Picture this – in a craggy old by-lane, I was checking out rajasthani artefacts, when their elderly shopkeeper – dressed in a traditional white dhoti and kurta, with a prominent tilak on his forehead – greeted a troupe of French guests in fluent French. The very next minute walked in a Japanese couple, and the shopkeeper ushered them in crisp Japanese. The guests more than happy, with this warm welcome – complimented his efforts.
Whether it’s at the hotel, where you call for room service; or speak to a very young waiter at an unknown wayside restaurant, you’ll be struck by their fluency over international languages.
10 January 2010
Lifelines of Himachal Pradesh
.jpg)
On my recent trip to Himachal Pradesh, I came across a unique innovation - streams of water (pic above) criss-crossing through unknown hamlets where human habitation was scarce. Had I not been told about their critical importance for the region, I would have probably not even bothered to give them a second look.
These water-streams, or 'kuls', as they are known locally, are man-made structures, which reign in the water flowing from the mountains into areas with acute water- shortage. Now, water-shortage is a mass problem in the hills - so you'd find these 'kuls' practically everywhere in Himchal.
Dubbed as 'lifelines' for the region, locals here, depend on these streams of water for doing most of their household chores.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)