22 September 2010
16 September 2010
While last year’s Eid was spent in the company of great friends, this year was markedly different…’how different?’ – well I’m at a loss of words really; trying hard to describe what this special day was like this time around. I got a call in the wee hours, on that day – a lady’s voice it was - speaking frantically, the tension almost evident in every syllable that she uttered! It was Prerna, my neighbour’s maid – asking me for an urgent help. “My niece is untraceable – the agent who got her from Orissa says he has no records suggesting that he ever brought her from her village to Delhi!” – The feverish pain predominant in Prerna’s voice had already begun affecting me as it were – for I immediately visualised, what an utterly hopeless situation she and her entire family were dragged into.
Prerna’s niece,Chabi, is all of 12 years - who lost her mother at a tender age, and was ‘sold off’ (about 6 months back) to an agent who lured her father and step mother with the promise of a “good household” to work in, as a maid.
Prerna hails from a remote village near Bhuwaneshwar, in Orissa – its people are poor, and their only source of income from farming, has taken a beating due to poor monsoons since the last two years. Trafficking of young girls from Orissa is one of the highest in the country…. figures show approx 4000 minor girls went missing from the area between 2000-2005; and often a lack of other options for livelihood compels these young women to never return to their roots again.
For now, Prerna’s saga has just begun…searching for her little niece; and lodging complaints at police stations and NGOs.
Prerna’s niece,Chabi, is all of 12 years - who lost her mother at a tender age, and was ‘sold off’ (about 6 months back) to an agent who lured her father and step mother with the promise of a “good household” to work in, as a maid.
Prerna hails from a remote village near Bhuwaneshwar, in Orissa – its people are poor, and their only source of income from farming, has taken a beating due to poor monsoons since the last two years. Trafficking of young girls from Orissa is one of the highest in the country…. figures show approx 4000 minor girls went missing from the area between 2000-2005; and often a lack of other options for livelihood compels these young women to never return to their roots again.
For now, Prerna’s saga has just begun…searching for her little niece; and lodging complaints at police stations and NGOs.
07 September 2010
'Emerald Country' - my published feature on Assam....here it is for those of you who wanted to read it!
As the flight nears Jorhat airport and gears for its descent, I look below and see a land strikingly green – glittering in the afternoon sun, like a stunning emerald! Though Jorhat (north-eastern part of Assam) is not in my itinerary, yet travelling through its verdant valleys fills my senses and raises my anticipation! My destination is Kaaziranga National Park – the last remaining natural habitat of the Asian Elephant and the Great Indian One-Horned Rhinoceros.
A 1-½ hours drive (96 km), from Jorhat airport through NH 37, Kaaziranga National Park covers an approx area of 859 sq km. Straddling the districts of Nagaon, Golaghat and the newly acquired parts of Sonitpur, this vast stretch is a mishmash of grasslands, tropical evergreen forests and wetlands. The park is divided into five distinct zones namely Bagori (west) Kohora (central), Burapahar (north-west), Agaratoli (east) and the recent addition Bishwanath Ghaat, on the banks of the Brahmaputra River (north).
Kohora in the central zone has the highest number of hotels and restaurants – here, I have booked my stay at the beautifully decorated four-star property IORA – The Retreat, (a flagship property of Janambhumi Hotels and Resorts). Before sundown I decide to go for a stroll in the nearby village. It’s only the beginning of March and rains have already hit the valley…and Mother Nature has begun unfolding her many splendid charms! The reek of freshly soaked earth is unmistakable. The constant drone of fireflies and crickets; the occasional drill of a woodpecker and the intermittent croaking of a frog fill the nippy breeze. Shrubs of wild flowers, strikingly bright dahlia, hibiscus, marigolds and roses compel your attention, away from thickets of bamboo, sal, and banyan; as well as the stunning emerald patchwork of surrounding paddy fields, that one has been admiring. I venture into one of the jhoopuri’s (thatched huts made of bamboo and grass) where unassuming locals carry on actively with the remnants of their day’s work – young women busy weaving the last few yards of an intricately designed ‘ghamosa’(small piece of cloth, like a shawl, it is used for any special occasion) and a glossy muga cloth (Muga, Eri and Pat are the indigenous wild silks produced in Assam); and bamboo artisans moving their deft hands to give final touches to exquisite bamboo artefacts.
I wake up early next morning and head to the western range of Kaziranga - Bagori. An elephant safari around the park is what I have planned. As our mammoth mammal (carrying five passengers including the mahut) trudges into the forest, I get the first glimpse of Kaziranga’s vast and exotic locale. Undulating stretches of brown elephant-grass, dotted with marshy beels (shallow lakes which get replenished by the Brahmaputra during monsoons) and hemmed in by the misty Karbi-Anglong hills in the distance unfold before us! Just a month ago the grass here would have been green – now they have been burnt for the fresh lot to grow. The fresh grass is what the park’s huge population of herbivores will graze on, informs the mahut. This annual burning is also a unique way of maintaining the ecological balance of wood, forest and wetland ratio in the park.
At some distance we spot a massive Great Indian One-Horned Rhinoceros (once found in the grassy flood plains of the Indus, Ganga and Brahmaputra rivers, it is now restricted to the forests of Kaziranga) – apparently a shy animal weighing close to 1800 kg, we are told it can charge at speeds of 55 km per hour when attacked. Current rhino population in the park is upwards of 2000.
A few metres away a reddish-brown sambar (Asian deer) emerges and just as quickly merges into the tall brown grass. Interestingly, the name Kaziranga meaning ‘the land of the red goat’, is derived from the local Karbi words, ‘Kazi’ meaning goat and ‘ranga’ denoting red.
Kaziranga is today a shining example of successful wildlife conservation. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it boasts of having the highest density of tigers in India, (current populations, thanks to the Project Tiger initiative is upwards of 100). The park is also home to large populations of elephants, wild buffaloes, barasingha (swamp deer), wild boars, monitor lizards, bear, and variety of reptiles, river dolphins and around 500 species of migratory and resident birds.
The elephant safari is however only a cursory glance of the park. The jeep ride, which is close to 4 hours, will take you well into the central range of Kohora - into dense groves of towering broadleaf trees and canopies of entwining roots. It’s true wilderness here - an almost no-man’s land where you can find hordes of big tuskers or groups of wild buffaloes wallowing in the warm waters. Manoj, our guide stopped at strategic locations to make us spot some of the rarest species of birds (close to 40) including imperial pigeons, red-breasted parakeets, pelicans, the snake bird, cormorants, serpent eagles, the Great Indian hornbill, egrets and storks (avid bird-watchers, however head to Agaratoli, which is considered a birding paradise).
Fascinating sights and sounds all – we chased a jungle fowl and were chased by a cluster of grasshoppers; watched river fishes toss in the air; kingfishers deftly scoop out their catch; a neelkanth (Indian Roller) spread it’s majestic blue wings and families of lazy tortoises sunbathing on tree-trunks strewn on the Diflu river (a tributary of the Brahmaputra, it criss-crosses through Kaziranga). We heard barbets click in unison, owls hoot from treetops, elephants trumpet and wild boars snort –every sound breaking the deafening silence as it were! The big cat however was nowhere to be seen! “Reason enough for another visit”, I told myself!
Though Kaziranga remains closed during the monsoon months – yet there will be plentiful opportunities to spot its faunal spledour. During monsoons most areas of the forest get flooded, and as such, animals, including tigers, cross over to the adjoining Karbi-Anglong hills. Incidentally poaching is still a nagging issue for the region, despite the many rigorous measures introduced by the government to punish the guilty.
The safari done – we headed straight to the Hathikhuli tea estate (owned by the Tata group). Manicured stretches of the camellia sinesis (plant whose leaves are used to produce tea) lay before us. Tea is mostly grown in the lowlands of Assam, unlike Dargeeling and Nilgiris where it is found in the highlands. Assam is the world’s most prolific tea growing region - the rich soil of the Brahmaputra valley, combined with a generous rainfall and humid climate are considered ideal for its rich yield. Historically China and Assam are the only two regions in the world with native tea plants. It is believed that the first tea-plant was spotted here by Scottish adventurer Robert Bruce in 1823.
Since our visit was in early March we missed the first harvest of tea leaves(also known as the first flush) which would begin later in the month. The second harvest, or the 'second flush' begins in June. Tea-tourism, is gradually picking up in the state – so, if you happen to visit sometime between April-November you can opt for guided tours of plantations and factories; as well as watch the colourful jhoomoor dance, traditionally performed by plantation workers after every harvest.
But there’s more to the region than lush tea estates, exotic animals and magnificent forests – it’s the people and their unique cultural traditions. “Assam, with its rich and vast ethnic diversity is an anthropologist’s delight”, says Sanjay Bose, a public relations and branding consultant and a wildlife enthusiast who has extensively travelled the region. There are vast populations of indigenous tribes like Karbis, Missings, Bodos and Kaccharis spread across the region along with the traditional Ahoms, each having their distinct dialects and customs. Following his suggestion, I decide to explore the nearby villages - to try and get a glimpse of tribal life. Though traditionally involved in agriculture and fishing, a vast majority of younger tribals have today assimilated into more modern lifestyles. As a tourist one can visit their inconspicuous bamboo dwellings as well as enjoy a typical tribal meal with the families!
Being a people enmeshed in natural surroundings, their knowledge of the flora and fauna of the region is vast and in-depth….you can often hear a tribal spewing out scientific names of species at random. This, I discovered at Kaziranga, as well as at my next destination Bhalukpung, the border town between Assam and Arunachal Pradesh...
A 3 hours journey from Kohora (52 kms from Tezpur), Bhalukpong, is a quiet town nestled amidst the green Himalayan ranges of Arunachal Pradesh and the luxuriant Nameri National Park. The Jia Bhoreli river, which wends through this tiny hamlet (it later joins the Brahmaputra at Tezpur), begins its journey as the Kameng river, from the glaciers of Tawang, in Arunachal Pradesh. Interestingly, Bhalukpong is also the only route through which one can reach the very scenic town of Bomdila (popular among mountain lovers and trekkers) and Tawang, a place most revered by Tibetan Buddhists, (both towns are in Arunachal Pradesh).
Bhalukpung is an ideal weekend getaway – a most pristine and virgin land that is largely unexplored! The place is a much-favoured destination for hard-core wildlife enthusiasts and nature lovers, and has tremendous potential to build on adventure sports; eco and culture tourism. Though guided tours of the Nameri National Park is available yet due to stray incidents of insurgency, the region is yet to see brisk tourist activities. There is a heavy presence of the army and paramilitary forces all along, till the borders of Arunachal Pradesh; and its arterial road, which connects it to Tawang, is only being set up now – a huge relief for locals of the area.
Apart from a visit to Nameri, one can also go rafting on the Jia Bhoreli river – however don’t expect the thrills of the sport as you might have enjoyed on the Ganges at Rishikesh, since the rapids here aren’t strong enough. You can however savour fascinating views of the surrounding mountains and the forests, as well as watch some rare birds as you sail along. Just 5 kms away from Bhalukpong is the Tipi Orchid garden, Asia’s largest orchid centre – it has around 500 species of exotic orchids on display.
Where to stay
@ Kaziranga
IORA Resorts - situated only 1.5 kilometres from the main entrance gates to the wildlife national park, this four-star property comprises a total of 42 aesthetically designed rooms (four suites, 19 luxury rooms and 19 deluxe rooms) with balconies. The rooms are in fact quite luxurious and spacious; and provide splendid views of the surrounding hills and forests.
Bonhabi Resort - Just a short walk from the main entrance gate of Kohora Central Range, Bonhabi has 14 spacious, twin bedded cottages, which are large, airy and very modern in their layout. You will get some amazing views of the surrounding tropical forests and paddy fields.
Others – Emerald, Wild Grass, Arj Resort, Landmark Woods.
@ Bhalukpung
Prashanthi cottages - leased from the Assam government, by the Janambhumi Group, it has 10 independent cottages set on the banks of the Jia Bhoreli river.
Eco-camp – nestled amidst the foliage of Nameri, this unique resort has a cluster of 10 huts (made of bamboo and grass) instead of concrete rooms; and is an ideal place for nature lovers.
Others – Prashanthi Lodge
A 1-½ hours drive (96 km), from Jorhat airport through NH 37, Kaaziranga National Park covers an approx area of 859 sq km. Straddling the districts of Nagaon, Golaghat and the newly acquired parts of Sonitpur, this vast stretch is a mishmash of grasslands, tropical evergreen forests and wetlands. The park is divided into five distinct zones namely Bagori (west) Kohora (central), Burapahar (north-west), Agaratoli (east) and the recent addition Bishwanath Ghaat, on the banks of the Brahmaputra River (north).
Kohora in the central zone has the highest number of hotels and restaurants – here, I have booked my stay at the beautifully decorated four-star property IORA – The Retreat, (a flagship property of Janambhumi Hotels and Resorts). Before sundown I decide to go for a stroll in the nearby village. It’s only the beginning of March and rains have already hit the valley…and Mother Nature has begun unfolding her many splendid charms! The reek of freshly soaked earth is unmistakable. The constant drone of fireflies and crickets; the occasional drill of a woodpecker and the intermittent croaking of a frog fill the nippy breeze. Shrubs of wild flowers, strikingly bright dahlia, hibiscus, marigolds and roses compel your attention, away from thickets of bamboo, sal, and banyan; as well as the stunning emerald patchwork of surrounding paddy fields, that one has been admiring. I venture into one of the jhoopuri’s (thatched huts made of bamboo and grass) where unassuming locals carry on actively with the remnants of their day’s work – young women busy weaving the last few yards of an intricately designed ‘ghamosa’(small piece of cloth, like a shawl, it is used for any special occasion) and a glossy muga cloth (Muga, Eri and Pat are the indigenous wild silks produced in Assam); and bamboo artisans moving their deft hands to give final touches to exquisite bamboo artefacts.
I wake up early next morning and head to the western range of Kaziranga - Bagori. An elephant safari around the park is what I have planned. As our mammoth mammal (carrying five passengers including the mahut) trudges into the forest, I get the first glimpse of Kaziranga’s vast and exotic locale. Undulating stretches of brown elephant-grass, dotted with marshy beels (shallow lakes which get replenished by the Brahmaputra during monsoons) and hemmed in by the misty Karbi-Anglong hills in the distance unfold before us! Just a month ago the grass here would have been green – now they have been burnt for the fresh lot to grow. The fresh grass is what the park’s huge population of herbivores will graze on, informs the mahut. This annual burning is also a unique way of maintaining the ecological balance of wood, forest and wetland ratio in the park.
At some distance we spot a massive Great Indian One-Horned Rhinoceros (once found in the grassy flood plains of the Indus, Ganga and Brahmaputra rivers, it is now restricted to the forests of Kaziranga) – apparently a shy animal weighing close to 1800 kg, we are told it can charge at speeds of 55 km per hour when attacked. Current rhino population in the park is upwards of 2000.
A few metres away a reddish-brown sambar (Asian deer) emerges and just as quickly merges into the tall brown grass. Interestingly, the name Kaziranga meaning ‘the land of the red goat’, is derived from the local Karbi words, ‘Kazi’ meaning goat and ‘ranga’ denoting red.
Kaziranga is today a shining example of successful wildlife conservation. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it boasts of having the highest density of tigers in India, (current populations, thanks to the Project Tiger initiative is upwards of 100). The park is also home to large populations of elephants, wild buffaloes, barasingha (swamp deer), wild boars, monitor lizards, bear, and variety of reptiles, river dolphins and around 500 species of migratory and resident birds.
The elephant safari is however only a cursory glance of the park. The jeep ride, which is close to 4 hours, will take you well into the central range of Kohora - into dense groves of towering broadleaf trees and canopies of entwining roots. It’s true wilderness here - an almost no-man’s land where you can find hordes of big tuskers or groups of wild buffaloes wallowing in the warm waters. Manoj, our guide stopped at strategic locations to make us spot some of the rarest species of birds (close to 40) including imperial pigeons, red-breasted parakeets, pelicans, the snake bird, cormorants, serpent eagles, the Great Indian hornbill, egrets and storks (avid bird-watchers, however head to Agaratoli, which is considered a birding paradise).
Fascinating sights and sounds all – we chased a jungle fowl and were chased by a cluster of grasshoppers; watched river fishes toss in the air; kingfishers deftly scoop out their catch; a neelkanth (Indian Roller) spread it’s majestic blue wings and families of lazy tortoises sunbathing on tree-trunks strewn on the Diflu river (a tributary of the Brahmaputra, it criss-crosses through Kaziranga). We heard barbets click in unison, owls hoot from treetops, elephants trumpet and wild boars snort –every sound breaking the deafening silence as it were! The big cat however was nowhere to be seen! “Reason enough for another visit”, I told myself!
Though Kaziranga remains closed during the monsoon months – yet there will be plentiful opportunities to spot its faunal spledour. During monsoons most areas of the forest get flooded, and as such, animals, including tigers, cross over to the adjoining Karbi-Anglong hills. Incidentally poaching is still a nagging issue for the region, despite the many rigorous measures introduced by the government to punish the guilty.
The safari done – we headed straight to the Hathikhuli tea estate (owned by the Tata group). Manicured stretches of the camellia sinesis (plant whose leaves are used to produce tea) lay before us. Tea is mostly grown in the lowlands of Assam, unlike Dargeeling and Nilgiris where it is found in the highlands. Assam is the world’s most prolific tea growing region - the rich soil of the Brahmaputra valley, combined with a generous rainfall and humid climate are considered ideal for its rich yield. Historically China and Assam are the only two regions in the world with native tea plants. It is believed that the first tea-plant was spotted here by Scottish adventurer Robert Bruce in 1823.
Since our visit was in early March we missed the first harvest of tea leaves(also known as the first flush) which would begin later in the month. The second harvest, or the 'second flush' begins in June. Tea-tourism, is gradually picking up in the state – so, if you happen to visit sometime between April-November you can opt for guided tours of plantations and factories; as well as watch the colourful jhoomoor dance, traditionally performed by plantation workers after every harvest.
But there’s more to the region than lush tea estates, exotic animals and magnificent forests – it’s the people and their unique cultural traditions. “Assam, with its rich and vast ethnic diversity is an anthropologist’s delight”, says Sanjay Bose, a public relations and branding consultant and a wildlife enthusiast who has extensively travelled the region. There are vast populations of indigenous tribes like Karbis, Missings, Bodos and Kaccharis spread across the region along with the traditional Ahoms, each having their distinct dialects and customs. Following his suggestion, I decide to explore the nearby villages - to try and get a glimpse of tribal life. Though traditionally involved in agriculture and fishing, a vast majority of younger tribals have today assimilated into more modern lifestyles. As a tourist one can visit their inconspicuous bamboo dwellings as well as enjoy a typical tribal meal with the families!
Being a people enmeshed in natural surroundings, their knowledge of the flora and fauna of the region is vast and in-depth….you can often hear a tribal spewing out scientific names of species at random. This, I discovered at Kaziranga, as well as at my next destination Bhalukpung, the border town between Assam and Arunachal Pradesh...
A 3 hours journey from Kohora (52 kms from Tezpur), Bhalukpong, is a quiet town nestled amidst the green Himalayan ranges of Arunachal Pradesh and the luxuriant Nameri National Park. The Jia Bhoreli river, which wends through this tiny hamlet (it later joins the Brahmaputra at Tezpur), begins its journey as the Kameng river, from the glaciers of Tawang, in Arunachal Pradesh. Interestingly, Bhalukpong is also the only route through which one can reach the very scenic town of Bomdila (popular among mountain lovers and trekkers) and Tawang, a place most revered by Tibetan Buddhists, (both towns are in Arunachal Pradesh).
Bhalukpung is an ideal weekend getaway – a most pristine and virgin land that is largely unexplored! The place is a much-favoured destination for hard-core wildlife enthusiasts and nature lovers, and has tremendous potential to build on adventure sports; eco and culture tourism. Though guided tours of the Nameri National Park is available yet due to stray incidents of insurgency, the region is yet to see brisk tourist activities. There is a heavy presence of the army and paramilitary forces all along, till the borders of Arunachal Pradesh; and its arterial road, which connects it to Tawang, is only being set up now – a huge relief for locals of the area.
Apart from a visit to Nameri, one can also go rafting on the Jia Bhoreli river – however don’t expect the thrills of the sport as you might have enjoyed on the Ganges at Rishikesh, since the rapids here aren’t strong enough. You can however savour fascinating views of the surrounding mountains and the forests, as well as watch some rare birds as you sail along. Just 5 kms away from Bhalukpong is the Tipi Orchid garden, Asia’s largest orchid centre – it has around 500 species of exotic orchids on display.
Where to stay
@ Kaziranga
IORA Resorts - situated only 1.5 kilometres from the main entrance gates to the wildlife national park, this four-star property comprises a total of 42 aesthetically designed rooms (four suites, 19 luxury rooms and 19 deluxe rooms) with balconies. The rooms are in fact quite luxurious and spacious; and provide splendid views of the surrounding hills and forests.
Bonhabi Resort - Just a short walk from the main entrance gate of Kohora Central Range, Bonhabi has 14 spacious, twin bedded cottages, which are large, airy and very modern in their layout. You will get some amazing views of the surrounding tropical forests and paddy fields.
Others – Emerald, Wild Grass, Arj Resort, Landmark Woods.
@ Bhalukpung
Prashanthi cottages - leased from the Assam government, by the Janambhumi Group, it has 10 independent cottages set on the banks of the Jia Bhoreli river.
Eco-camp – nestled amidst the foliage of Nameri, this unique resort has a cluster of 10 huts (made of bamboo and grass) instead of concrete rooms; and is an ideal place for nature lovers.
Others – Prashanthi Lodge
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